5 Reasons For RV Water Heater Igniter Not Clicking

5 Reasons For RV Water Heater Igniter Not Clicking

The presence of any clicking noise should raise alarm bells. For example, if a ticking bomb appeared in front of you, you would undoubtedly yell for your life. The clicking sound coming from the water heater’s igniter, however, is a sign that it is functioning correctly.

If something isn’t working, it probably isn’t working. It is up to you to investigate and identify the offender.

The question now is, why is the RV water heater igniter not clicking, and what can be done about it?

You can rest assured that all of your questions will be addressed. Additionally, this is described in exhaustive detail. You can relax while reading our article. What’s the status now? Alright, then, let’s get going.

Reasons and solutions for RV Water Heater Igniter Not Clicking

As promised, here is the reason your spark plug is failing to fire. This, however, comes with the caveat that there are a few possible explanations.

Accordingly, we must approach the problem methodically, one step at a time, if we are to unravel the mystery. That reasonable? Yes, then let us get started!

1. A fuse that has been accidentally blown.

If the ignition on your water heater isn’t clicking as it should, check the fuse first. As you can imagine, a blown fuse is the result of an excessive current passing through it.

As a result, the entire circuit fails. The engine won’t start because the voltage can’t get to the spark plug.

But how do you know it’s the fuse and not something else? One way to determine whether or not a suspect’s fuse is in mint condition is to remove it and examine it.

Now, if you discover the fuse is blown, you’ll need to take steps to fix the problem.

Solution: 

An easy fix is to simply switch out the fuse.

After determining that a blown fuse is to blame, the fuse in question must be replaced. For your information, a fuse can only be used once. When it eventually blows, you’ll need to replace it with a new one.

This is how it was intended to work. However, once the fuse has been changed, your concerns regarding the igniter will be over.

But if the fuse is in place and secure, the issue must lie elsewhere. The issue will be discovered, though, so don’t worry. Hold tight for further developments.

2. The Brown Wire Has No Current

What, the fuse wasn’t the problem? Okay, then let’s continue with the investigation.

This section requires you to inspect the brown wire close to the fuse. You can think of the earth wire as the conduit for any surplus electricity to find its way to the ground.

In this way, even if there is a short circuit, you won’t be hurt. However, this brown wire may also be at fault if the igniter isn’t working properly.

The fact that electricity is unable to pass through it indicates that it is the source of the problem. Bring out the voltmeter and give it a try.

Continue your search if you detect electrical current. However, if there is no electricity, the situation must be rectified.

Solution: 

To fix this, simply switch out the brown wire.

Just swapping out the brown wire should resolve the problem. When you’ve finished, you can activate the spark plug.

If the ticking of the igniter was interrupted because of the earth wire, then this should restore normal operation. In any case, if the issue hasn’t been resolved by now, then something else must be to blame.

Stay with us, and we’ll investigate this matter further.

3. There is no electricity flowing in at the point where the heat is turned off.

If your igniter hasn’t been fixed yet, try not to let it get you down. Examine the thermal cutoff switch instead, which can be found under the brown wire.

Well, all you really need to do to be sure is see if there is electricity flowing through it. Not if it’s flowing normally, anyway. If it isn’t, then you’ve struck it rich.

Solution:

Substitute the thermal cutoff.

There are two possible solutions if you discover that electricity is not passing through the thermal cutoff. You can get it working again by disabling the thermal cut off and rerouting the cables.

But that’s not safe, as the thermal cutoff safeguards you against electrical hazards. Consequently, the thermal cutoff should be completely replaced for a more long-term solution.

4. Connector dirt is the fourth possible cause.

The connectors on the circuit board could be dirty, which would explain why the igniter isn’t clicking. You have to realize that dust and dirt accumulate between the wires over time.

The result is that the wires detach. Since the control board isn’t receiving power, the situation is hopeless. The problem would be easily fixed if this were the case.

Solution: 

Disinfect the plugs.

The connectors need only be cleaned. The job can be done with a few wipes of a rag.

5. A malfunctioning circuit board.

If none of these are the case, however, it may be time to inspect the circuit board. It’s possible that there’s a snag there.

Solution:

Substitute a new circuit board for the problem.

Managing the circuit board is a challenging task at this point. It’s so complex that only the best specialists can solve it. So, you’ll need to remove the motherboard and bring it in for repairs.

In extreme cases, a whole new circuit board may be required.

Final Thoughts

These are the only plausible explanations for why the ignition switch on your RV water heater igniter is not clicking. May you have succeeded in apprehending the primary offender in your case.

Because you have identified the issue, you can move forward with fixing it. Your efforts to repair the igniter are greatly appreciated. Keep to yourself. Adios!

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