Outdoor bouldering is much different from indoor bouldering on a climbing wall, and this can be a challenging concept to grasp for both beginner and experienced rock climbers. If you’ve only climbed indoors be prepared—there’s a lot more to work with with a real rock. Holds won’t be as obvious, footholds may be nonexistent, and it may be difficult to determine where to place your hand next. You’ll have to look closer, think harder, and stay calmer the higher you climb.
However, the thrill of outdoor bouldering is usually enough to get most people climbing. A big boulder just waiting to be explored is enticing, but the proper precautions must be taken to ensure a safe climb. For all my newbie outdoor bouldering enthusiasts, follow these tips below to ensure your first few climbs memorable and you remain unharmed.
1. Slow and Steady
Keep your expectations low on your first few outdoor bouldering adventures. You will not be able to climb as quickly and efficiently as you would in an indoor gym. Start your climb slow and keep a steady pace. Do not feel as though you need to rush to get to the top — in fact, you don’t even have to get to the top. If you only make it halfway when you reach your comfort threshold, it’s ok to stop and climb back down.
Initially seek out an area with low rock formations with good landings. Start on the easiest problems and work your way up through the grades, getting a feel for the rock and style of climbing before tackling tougher terrain. Easy angled slabs with plenty of big holds are ideal boulder problems for beginners.
2. Skin Protection
Outdoor bouldering is rough on the skin of your hands, especially your fingertips. Not only is it uncomfortable to climb when your fingertips get tender, but they won’t grip as well, especially on small or slopey holds.
It is important to keep your skin moisturized as much as possible — dry skin is more likely to tear and split. Regularly apply hand cream or balm — looking for one that will encourage the growth of new skin as well as moisturize (Palmer’s Cocoa Butter and Climb On are both great choices). A lot of bouldering on rough rock will build up your skin, unfortunately it does take time to build up that resistance.
3. Weather
Believe it or not, weather plays a big role in bouldering. The ideal weather conditions for bouldering are cold, dry days. This is when the friction between your hands and shoes and the rock is at it’s best.
Bad weather conditions while bouldering is the equivalent of running a half marathon against the wind or swimming against the current. Good conditions are vital for holding very sloping holds. The more friction the better. Cold = friction.
4. Foot Placement
It is easy to forget that our feet need holds just as much as our hands do when it comes to beginning rock climbing. Footwork requires just as much thought and effort as where you place your hands. Use the toe rather than the arch of your shoe, place your feet carefully, trying to keep them still as you transfer weight.
Start with bouldering on outdoor slabs to improve your footwork. Choose low problems with good landings where you don’t have to worry if you fall. Attempting easier problems without using your hands will teach you a good lesson on balance and trusting your feet on marginal holds.
5. Spotting Technique
Spotting a fellow climber helps them get to the ground safely. It isn’t practiced as much in indoor rock climbing due to the padding however it’s an essential part of outdoor bouldering. A good spotter helps build confidence in the climber — allowing them to focus 100% on climbing down to safety rather than fear. The main job a spotter has is to provide guidance, break their fall and make sure to protect the climber’s head from an impact.
When spotting a climber, stand with a firm stance, your hands reaching toward’s the climbers midriff. Stand a few feet beyond the point where you expect the climber’s feet to hit the ground. Focus your attention to the area just above the hips rather than watching their hands and feet. Don’t get distracted pointing out holds. If a climber does fall, remember to keep a firm grip on them until their balance is regained.
6. Falling
It is essential for newbies to outdoor bouldering to practice falling to learn the proper technique. With a spotter, practice falling from safe and manageable distances at first with a pad. As you fall keep your torso vertical, your legs straight but not locked, your toes pointed towards the ground and your arms raised to reduce the risk of injuring your spotter. Bend your legs as you hit the ground to absorb the impact, but avoid sinking into a low squat position to save your knees from the impact. Your legs wont be able to absorb all the impact of long falls so as you bend your legs, drop sideways onto the pad with your knees, hips, then shoulders. It isn’t graceful but it is better than a broken angle.
7. Friends
Bring your friends along with you, not only to spot you but also to provide extra motivation. Plus the company will keep you entertained rather than embarking on a solo mission. When it comes to hiking/bouldering, safety in numbers is always the way to go. In the case of emergency, having extra friends on hand to help the injured while others find help could be your saving grace.
8. Overcoming Fears
Many of us have a fear of heights. It is a natural, normal thing to be afraid of. Unfortunately when it comes to rock climbing it is just about the worst fear to have. One way to try to squash this fear is to focus on what is in front of you. Look down no further than your feet to correctly place them on the bet part of the hold. Do not look down to see how far you’ve climbed until you reach the top. You may unnecessarily cause yourself anxiety that can be avoided.
Photo Credit: VAStateParkStaff , Alessandro Vaili , Mazaletel , Mark Doliner
